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Restaurant review: Lucky Strike in Chicopee

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Like many of this area's homegrown eateries, the Lucky Strike Restaurant in Chicopee can trace its history back to post-World War II entrepreneurial efforts.

Lucky strike.JPGLucky Strike in Chicopee

Like many of this area's homegrown eateries, the Lucky Strike Restaurant in Chicopee can trace its history back to post-World War II entrepreneurial efforts.

Now an established presence locally, the Lucky Strike's tag line -- "healthy, hearty helpings" -- does indeed represent a fair assessment of what makes the restaurant popular.

A luncheonette that's over the years grown to become a full-service, three-meals-a-day destination, the Lucky Strike's coffee shop decor offers an environment conducive to casual, no-frills dining.

The menu is derivative of lunch wagon tradition, featuring selections such as Pork Loin Chops ($12.50), Hamburg Steak ($9.50), and Homemade Meat Pie ($8.50). Grilled Salmon ($13.95) and Baked Scrod ($13.95) are available, as is Spaghetti ($8.50) with meat sauce.

Supplementing those is a roster of "daily favorites" that lists choices such as hamburger and macaroni (Wednesday) baked stuffed shrimp (Friday), and prime rib on Saturdays.

Those opting for something less than a full meal can enjoy between-bread options such as a Hot & Open Turkey Sandwich ($8.50, a Grilled Chicken Club ($7.95), a Lucky Big Strike Burger ($6.95), or a French Dip ($6.95) that features roast sirloin.

Crispy Chicken Tenders ($5.25), Grilled Kielbasa ($4.95) with honey mustard, and Mozzarella Sticks ($4.95) are typical of the appetizer possibilities.

Broasted chicken is a Lucky Strike specialty; broasting is a pressure frying technique that locks in juiciness and flavor. A half Broasted Chicken Dinner is $10.50, and a variety of chicken combinations are also available.

When it comes to poultry, we favor dark meat, so the Dark Lunch ($6.95) sounded like the choice for us. A two-piece, drumstick-and-thigh presentation, the chicken was remarkable -- crisp-crusted, pleasantly seasoned, and deliciously moist.

We went with broasted potatoes as one of our sides and were pleased with that selection as well. Hefty, waffle-cut segments of whole potato, they had a texture and flavor that's akin to both French fried and baked, but better than either.

A side of coleslaw (impeccably fresh but a little bland) and a roll with butter rounded out the meal presentation.

Baked beans are a New England dish that's been mostly displaced from restaurant menus, but Lucky Strike still offers them in all their homemade, molasses-and-brown sugar glory. They're available as a side dish or as headliners in daily specials like baked beans with grilled kielbasa.

We sampled them as part of Fish Cakes with Baked Beans ($5.95) lunch, and found the beans to be a dish of which any Yankee grandmother would be proud -- hearty yet appealing sweet, the beans were tender yet not mushy.

The two fish cakes, Yankee classics in their own right, were generously sized, as are all the portions at the Lucky Strike. The cakes had a smooth texture that reflected the mashed potato base used to make them, and their flavor, though a shade salty for our taste, was nonetheless authentic.

Baked Meatloaf ($9.50), a blue-plate staple that's recently been rehabilitated as post-modern comfort food, is another element of the Lucky Strike repertoire.

The meatloaf we were served was of traditional provenance -- dense-textured, paprika-dusted, and infused with onion -- and had an honest, no-nonsense meat flavor. Served with mashed potatoes, green beans, and brown gravy, it was a meal that did indeed typify the restaurant's healthy-hearty credo.

The Lucky Strike is licensed to sell beer and wine; as might be expected, the wine selection is limited to about a dozen modest bottlings.

Homemade pies dominate the restaurant's dessert offerings, with filling flavors and varieties rotating throughout the week.

Along with Pineapple Cream, Chocolate Cream Pie ($2.95) is a house specialty. The crust is of the dense, crumbly sort professional bakers favor, and the fillings and toppings, we suspect, involve convenience mixes. The wedges are, however, generous, and rapid turnover in the pie case means what's dished up is served fresh.

Breakfast at the Lucky Strike features all the usual morning food favorites -- eggs any style, various breakfast meats, French toast, pancakes, and a number of omelettes.

Name: Lucky Strike Restaurant
Address: 703 Grattan Street, Chicopee
Phone: (413) 536-7912
Hours: Monday through Saturday 6 a.m. to 8 p.m.; and Sunday 6 a.m. to noon
Entree Prices: $8.50 - $15.95
Credit Cards: Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Handicapped Access: Accessible, with rest rooms equipped for wheelchairs
Reservations: Accepted


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