The new menu features the sort of steakhouse cuisine that's typical of big-city red meat meccas.
Hofbrau Joe at the Hofbrauhaus restaurant at 1105 Main Street in West Springfield
With a history dating back to 1935, the Hofbrauhaus in West Springfield, like many other restaurants, has evolved to accommodate changing customer expectations.
Most recent among such reworks was the one that took place early this summer, when owner Joe Stevens introduced a German steakhouse perspective into the operation.
The restaurant's public spaces got a facelift in the process, although the ambiance is still dominated by the white tablecloth, Bavarian-influenced motif that has long been a Hofbrauhaus hallmark.
The menu now features the sort of steakhouse cuisine that's typical of big-city red meat meccas – Morton's and Peter Luger's come to mind.
A half dozen steak options such as New York Strip ($25.50), Filet Mignon ($30), and Porterhouse ($32) are available, as are similar specialties such as Pork Chops ($17.95) or double-thick Veal Chops (market price).
Traditional Hofbrauhaus favorites – Chicken Kiev ($16.95), Schnitzel Holstein ($23), and Pork Shank ($23) -- are still offered, as are the likes of Bratwurst ($16.95) and Beer Batter Shrimp ($23).
An extensive list of starter options is also still on tap. Possibilities range from Blackened Scallop with Lobster ($11) and Venison Sausage ($10) to Sweet Potato Wontons ($7) and Bavarian MiniWurst ($7). Soups such as Lobster Bisque ($10) and Smoked Cheddar & Wild Mushroom ($7) have also been retained.
Goulash ($7) is a Hofbrauhaus signature dish, and we're pleased to report that it's as tasty as ever. A chunky style spoon-able that flirts with being a stew, it's thick with tender beef and diced potatoes. Smoky paprika flavors enliven the composition; the goulash would be a perfect starter on a chilly autumn evening.
Eager to experience the new "Hofbrau Joe's," we opted for the Hanger Steak ($18).
A small muscle that hangs from the steer's diaphragm, hanger steak was, until recently, an underappreciated cut. Best cooked no more done than medium rare, it has a wonderful combination of fine-grained texture and rich beef flavor.
The kitchen did everything right with our order, preparing the steak correctly with no hint of the bitter char that broiler cooks too often inflict on meat. A basting of butter after it came off the grill amplified the steak's ability to satisfy.
The Hofbrau Joe menu observes the a la carte convention most high-end steak eateries observe, listing sides ($4 each) like mashed Yukon bacon potatoes, handcut French fries, creamed spinach, and red cabbage.
Derived from Cajun cookery, the corn maque choux we selected was a delightful amalgam of the flavors of summer past – sweet corn simmered with onion, green pepper and judicious hints of bacon.
Steakhouse entrees come with a house salad of mixed greens as well as a basket of rolls with basil-garlic butter. The rolls, we noted, were commercial, par-baked items, and the pale, chewy specimens served us needed to be less about "par" and more about "baked."
Selected from among the restaurant's traditional specialties, the Wiener Schnitzel ($23) was as good a version of that Austrian classic as we've been ever put knife and fork to – tender veal, generously portioned, sauteed to a toasty golden brown. Paired with buttery spaetzle and a side of red cabbage in which "sweet" and "sour" mingled in just the right proportions, the schnitzel was outstanding.
Fully licensed, the Hofbrauhaus offers a first class selection of imported beers as well as a wine list with plenty of interesting vintages.
Most desserts at the restaurant continue to be made in-house. The selection, which varies from day to day, typically includes a cake or two, creme brulee, deep-dish berry pie, and more.
An order of Pumpkin Creme Brulee ($8) seem an appropriate homage to the season, while the Napoleon ($8) fully met our expectations.
The restaurant's lunchtime bill of is an extract of the dinner line-up that's supplemented by sandwich creations.
A currently featured Oktoberfest menu offers the likes of Sauerbraten ($24) and Veal Paprika ($24).
Name: Hofbrauhaus
Address: 1105 Main St., West Springfield
Phone: (413) 737-4905
Hours: Dinner Monday through Thursday, 4 to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 4 to 10 p.m. Lunch: Tuesday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., closed Sunday
Entree prices: $16.95 - $32
Credit cards: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Handicapped access: Accessible, but rest rooms not equipped for wheelchairs.
Reservations: Accepted