Portuguese specialties are a major part of Europa's repertoire.
Europa at 782 Center St. in Ludlow
Europa is a name that should be familiar to the dining out public, since it's an area restaurant that's operated out of a couple of different locations over the last eight years.
Now doing business on Center Street in Ludlow, the establishment occupies a simple bar-and-grill layout. Two dining areas flank a central lounge; the decorative agenda is uncomplicated and somewhat utilitarian.
Portuguese specialties remain a major part of Europa's repertoire, with selections including Bacalhau Assado (salt cod -- $17), Camarao (shrimp) a Mocambique ($16), and Alentjana ($17), a traditional pork and clam dish.
Other entree choices range from Penne Gorgonzola ($12) and Chicken Marsala ($15) to Shrimp Scampi ($17) and Rack of Lamb ($28).
The array of starters is an interesting lot, with possibilities such as Sauteed Broccoli Rabe ($6) and Lollipop Lamb Chops ($13) listed alongside Breaded Chicken Wings ($8) and Tenderloin Tips ($8).
We started our meal off with an order of Portuguese Martini Scallops ($10), a serving of four sea scallops poached in sweet vermouth, diced bacon, and garlic.
The splash of fortified wine lent the dish sweet herbal notes, while the bacon contributed hints of smoke. Sliced banana peppers and a sprinkling of minced scallions completed the presentation.
Risotto Balls ($8), our other first course selection, had a pleasingly crunchy crust that nicely complemented their soft, cheese-enriched interiors. Speckled with diced butternut squash and lightly drizzled with truffle aioli, they were a satisfying start to our dinner experience.
Seafood is a cornerstone of Portuguese cookery, and our Seafood Paelha ($19) featured a savory medley of perfectly poached clams, shrimp, and scallops. Served with saffron-infused rice, the paelha garnered praise all around.
We were equally pleased with the Mariscada ($20), a stew of clams, scallops, shrimp, and lobster in a mild onion and pepper broth.
In both dishes the fresh goodness of the seafood dominated the flavor profile, with other ingredients enhancing rather than seeming intrusive.
Stuffed Pork Loin ($17) featured a stuffing flavored with sausage and aromatic vegetables. A toasty sherry wine sauce completed the composition.
A unique aspect of the dining experience at Europa is the chance to experience hot rock cooking, an option the menu refers to as "Romancing the Stone."
Guests are brought a heated stone tablet on which to grill the likes of shrimp, scallops, or steak. Sides and sauces are also provided.
We opted for the Filet Mignon ($25), which came from the kitchen lightly seared and sprinkled with minced garlic. Our task was to cut slices from the steak, then cook them on the hot stone to the doneness we preferred.
We can't say that the stone added much in the line of flavor, although the garlicky Romesco sauce we opted for did prove to be a good accent for the beef. Instead, the attraction is the process -- it's interactive dining, pure and simple.
The accompaniments we were served -- a summer squash medley was the vegetable of the day -- were competently prepared, and a sweet potato au gratin, a layering of thin-sliced sweet potatoes and grated cheese, was one of the more interesting side dishes we've encountered in quite some time.
A general observation about the house style at Europa is in order; the restaurant's kitchen uses garlic and salt generously. It's a practice with which we didn't have an issue, but if you're sensitive to either, request restraint.
Europa is fully licensed, offering a serviceable selection of wines and legal beverages.
Desserts at Europa are primarily house made and include Creme Brulee ($5), Flourless Chocolate Torte ($6), and a Cheesecake ($5) made with cream cheese and chevre.
Both the Pudim Flan ($5) and the Apple Bread Pudding ($5) we ordered were competently prepared and attractively plated.
Bolo Bolacha Maria ($5), an icebox cake made by layering arrowroot biscuits and light-textured buttercream, was also enjoyable.
At lunch Europa serves a selection of sandwiches, burgers, and pizza-style flatbreads along with an edited-down roster of hot entrees.
Name: Europa Restaurant
Address: 782 Center St., Ludlow
Phone: (413) 547-6443
Hours: Tuesday through Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday 12 noon to 9 p.m.
Entree Prices: $12 - $28
Credit Cards: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Handicapped Access: Accessible, with rest rooms equipped for wheelchairs
Reservations: Accepted