"The Pedlar," as it's affectionately known, resumed serving both dinner and lunch earlier this year, and, in our opinion, the place is better than ever.
The Yankee Pedlar Inn in Holyoke
Holyoke's dining out public has a little something extra to be thankful for this year -- the return of the Yankee Pedlar Inn, long an iconic element of the Paper City's restaurant scene.
"The Pedlar," as it's affectionately known, resumed serving both dinner and lunch earlier this year, and, in our opinion, the place is better than ever.
Pedlar fans will be happy to see that the Oyster Bar space and adjacent grill room (now rechristened the Tavern Bar and Grill) remain comfortable, handsomely appointed places in which to enjoy a meal.
The current dinner menu at the Pedlar offers a number of favorites like salmon, steak, and pasta prepared in both "classic" and "contemporary" versions. What results are choices such as Linguini with a spicy pomodoro sauce (contemporary -- $9.95) and Chicken Pot Pie (classic -- $11.95).
A New York Strip Steak ($17.95) is served topped with blue cheese butter while Macaroni and Cheese features an indulgent-sounding three cheese sauce ($9.95).
Appetizers favor the traditional, though some of the variations have been updated.
Crab Cakes ($7.95), for instance, incorporate horseradish, pepper, and a crust of panko crumbs, while BLT Boats ($6.95) which are fashioned from romaine leaves filled with tomato slices and crisp bacon, qualify as both salad and starter.
We began our dinner with French Onion Soup ($3.50). Topped with a cheese-glazed crouton, the soup had an admirably caramelized onion sweetness, with no suggestion of the salt or bitterness that too often afflicts the onion soups restaurants typically prepare.
Pedlar Club Mushrooms ($6.95) demonstrated that stuffed mushrooms are an idea that still has merit. Mounded with a skillfully compounded, red-wine-moistened combination of fresh breadcrumbs, garlic, onion, and minced bacon, the five caps made an enjoyably savory start to our meal.
The Pedlar's updated presentation of Scallops ($15.95) was admirably simple. The five teacup-sized diver scallops were seared just to the point of translucent doneness, then arranged atop a bed of sauteed spinach flavored with garlic. A garnish of crisp bacon added character and crunch.
Chicken ($12.95) done "classically" at the Pedlar translates into moist breast cutlets crusted with golden-crisp panko crumbs. A choice of sauces is offered -- either lemon butter or a rich mustard tarragon cream. We opted for the latter and were pleased with it; the sauce embellished the chicken with interestingly complex herbal nuances.
Main courses at the Pedlar come with a choice of potato and, when appropriate, a daily vegetable selection. We had no complaint with the mashed potatoes we were served, but the day's veggie, a medley of green and yellow beans, was a bit too undercooked for our taste.
Competent garden salads and commercial rolls are also included in the entree presentation.
In addition to a standard selection of beer and cocktail favorites, the Yankee Pedlar is stocked with a smallish assortment of wine options, most of which carry bottle prices of $30 or less.
We were particularly impressed with the clever way the "new" Pedlar handles dessert. Rather than relying on ho-hum frozen confections, the "Sweets" menu presents two appealing choices -- a Trio of Cookie Treats ($4) or a Daily Selection ($4) of locally produced Mt. Tom Ice Cream.
The cookie trio -- molasses, chocolate-orange sandwiches, and sugar-dusted pecan balls, all freshly baked -- were simple yet delectable.
We also were entirely satisfied with the scoop of burnt sugar ice cream we were served. It, too, came garnished with home-style cookies.
We did grumble a bit at the service provided the evening we visited. Though polite and attentive, it was poorly timed -- appetizers, salads, and entrees arrived at our table in a rapid-fire jumble.
At lunch the Pedlar offers a selection of sandwiches, including the signature "Pilgrim's Feast" ($9.99), a stack-up of white meat turkey, herb stuffing, and cranberry relish.
Other noon hour specialties include Baked Scrod ($13.95), Roast Turkey ($13.95), and Pedlar Crab Cakes ($13.50).
The Yankee Pedlar is also open for Sunday brunch, offering a buffet of morning food favorites.
Name: Yankee Pedlar Inn
Address: 1866 Northampton Street, Holyoke
Phone: (413) 532-9494
Hours: Dinner served 4 to 10 p.m. Thursday through Saturday; lunch served Tuesday through Friday 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., Sunday brunch
Entree prices: $9.95 - $17.95
Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa
Handicapped access: Accessible, with rest rooms equipped for wheelchairs
Reservations: Accepted