Manna House in Greenfield, which relocated to larger quarters this summer, offers enticing opportunities to become acquainted with authentic Korean fare.
Manna House at 25 Bank Row in Greenfield
While Chinese restaurants are commonplace across the Pioneer Valley -- nearly every community of any size has at least one -- Korean cookery is much less widely available, with only a tiny handful of eateries specializing in that particular genre.
That scarcity of supply is, however, no obstacle to exploring this underappreciated cuisine. Manna House in Greenfield, which relocated to larger quarters this summer, offers enticing opportunities to become acquainted with authentic Korean fare.
Earthy, substantial, and often spicy, Korean cookery is a common folks cuisine. Noodles, root vegetables, and rice are the dominant ingredients; seafood and beef serve as protein grace notes, adding flavor but not occupying center stage.
A family-run enterprise, Manna House offers a generous assortment of traditional Korean appetizers, soups, and entrees.
Starter choices include Edamame ($4.95), Seaweed Salad ($4.95), and Kim Bab ($11.95), a sushi style egg-and-ham rollup. Dok Bok Gi (stir-fry rice cake -- $8.95) and Steamed Tofu ($5.95) are also part of the appetizer line up.
Soups are hearty meal-in-a-bowl constructs such as Kal Guk Su (a thick noodle soup with scallions and garlic -- $8.95); Duk Gook (rice cake soup -- $8.95); and Yuk Gae Jang (beef, egg, and vegetable in a spicy broth -- $10.95).
We started our meal with Shumai ($8.95), the steamed shrimp dumplings that can be found on many Oriental restaurant menus.
What distinguishes the shumai served at Manna House is their homemade goodness. The individual packets are tender and have a savory seafood character that the machine-made, bought-frozen variety served elsewhere can't match. Plated on a splash of toasted sesame oil, the shumai were quick to disappear.
Our other starter choice, Squash Jun ($9.95), was an oversized pancake made from shredded potato and matchstick-cut zucchini.
We liked the cake's toasty crust and soft creamy interior. A dipping sauce infused with soy sauce and sesame oil was also provided.
From a main dish collection that features choices such as O Jing Ah Bokum (stir-fried squid -- $13.95) and Pork Bul Go Gi (pork with kimchi and steamed tofu -- $14.95), we opted to try Kal Bi (barbecued short ribs -- $16.95), a Korean classic.
Thin, crosscut short rib slices, the Kal Bi had been marinated in a Korean style infusion that had a distinctive raisin and spice flavor. Pleasantly chewy, but not in the least bit tough, the beef was paired with a side of steamed white rice.
Bokembob ($9.95), the Korean take on fried rice, is much akin to the Chinese version, albeit less oily and more delicately flavorful. Speckled with peas, diced carrot, green beans, and shreds of cooked egg, the bokembob we enjoyed incorporated baby shrimp. Variations with beef and chicken are also offered.
Opting for a meat-free experience, we also ordered Bean Sprouts Kimchi Dol Sot Bab ($12.95).
Layered in a stone pot on a heaping measure of steamed rice, the dish was a likeable combination of tastes and textures -- the cool crispness of fresh mung bean sprouts, the chili inflected, slightly sour crunchiness of kimchi, and the punch of a garlic-laced soy sauce drizzle.
Because the kitchen at Manna House is mostly a one-woman show, food can, we should note, take a bit of time to arrive at the table. It's worth the wait -- everything we sampled had a clarity of flavor restaurant fare rarely achieves.
Beverage options at Manna House are limited to juices, soft drinks, and several teas.
Dessert, more a Western idea than a part of Korean culture, is limited to three flavors of ice cream -- orange pineapple, green tea, and ginger ($2.95).
The restaurant's dining space, a long, narrow room that looks out across Greenfield's town common, is decorated in an attractively minimalist fashion. A judicious selection of Korean artifacts set the mood; tables and chairs are the sole seating option.
The restaurant is open for lunch, serving the same menu it features in the evening.
Name: Manna House
Address: 27 Bank Row, Greenfield
Phone: (413) 774-5955
Hours: Monday through Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.
Entree Prices: $8.95 - $16.95
Credit Cards: Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Handicapped Access: Accessible, with rest rooms equipped for wheelchairs
Reservations: Not normally taken