Restaurant review: Krazy Jake's in Wilbraham

Krazy Jake's can best be described as a landlocked clam shack.

Krazy Jake's in Wilbraham The Republican  

Located just across Boston Road from Wilbraham's Spec Pond Recreation Area, Krazy Jake's can best be described as a landlocked clam shack.

A rambling building, the restaurant features three interconnected public spaces -- a short-order luncheonette, a dining room, and a bar-lounge

Furnishings and decor are simple -- tables, chairs, some nautical bric-a-brac, and several photomurals of tropical destinations.

Seafood, sandwiches, and ice cream are the menu agenda at Jake's.

Most of the seafood platters are in the beach eatery style, with options like Fried Calamari ($9.99), Fried Oysters ($12.99), and Steamers ($13.99) served with fries and slaw.

Jake's supplements its seafood repertoire with dinner options that range from a Four Cheese Macaroni Bake ($9.99) to a T-Bone Steak ($15.99).

Appetizer choices at Krazy Jake's are of the type that can be found in many local eateries.

Specifics? Well, the kitchen prepares Mozzarella Sticks ($5.25), Jumbo Buffalo Shrimp ($7.99), and seafood-stuffed Mushrooms ($8.99).

Somewhat more unusual are the likes of pan-fried Pierogies ($4.99) and Clam Fritters ($4.25 for a half dozen).

We decided to share one of our favorites, Crab Cakes ($7.99). Impressive looking, the two golden-crusted patties were the size of jumbo hamburgers. Diced red and green bell pepper gave the cakes an interesting appearance.

The proof of any crab cake is in the eating, however, and the specimens Krazy Jake's sends out are somewhat short on crab, with seasoned, moistened bread crumbs dominating instead.

Lobster Bisque ($5 for a cup) was, in our view, more successful. Though a shade on the salty side, the soup had a silky texture and no shortage of flavor; a more-than-adequate measure of claw and tail meat was present in our portion.

A Baked Sea Scallops ($14.99) dinner was prepared in a conventional style - crumb topping, a drizzle of seasoned butter, and lemon wedge garnish. Simple but enjoyable, we agreed.

Dinners at Krazy Jake's come with baked potato and vegetable.

The latter, a medley of carrots, broccoli, cauliflower, and green beans, was lightly dressed with herb butter and met with our approval.

The baker, however, was another story. Damp and khaki-brown inside, it, by its very appearance, called into question its freshness.

Salad, either garden or Caesar, is also part of the dinner deal. We chose the Caesar salad and were pleased with its freshness. The dressing was admittedly a little sharp, but plenty of croutons and freshly grated parmesan helped make up for any such deficiencies.

Apparently still a roadside ice cream stand at heart, Krazy Jake's is well know for its hot dog variations, which enjoy signature status on the bill of fare.

Passing on choices such as Peek-a-Boo Dogs (two chili dogs served in a wrap -- $7.99), we opted to sample an All American Grilled Dog ($2.99).

Definitely a first-rate tube steak, we agreed, although we did grumble that the juicy natural casing dog suffered from the "too-much-dog, not-enough-bun" syndrome.

Other sandwich selections at Krazy Jake's range from eight-ounce specialty burgers like a spicy Volcano Cheeseburgers ($8.39) to various melt sandwiches, Philly subs, BLTs, and beach food favorites like Fried Clam ($12.99) and Lobster ($13.99) rolls.

Krazy Jake's is fully licensed, so an assortment of beer, wine, and spirits are available, with the last of the three also used to prepare several "adult" ice cream treats.

Desserts at the restaurant are detailed on a two-category listing. A number of sundaes and ice cream treats are available; a sampling of pastries such as Chocolate Lava Cake ($5.49), Cheesecake ($4.99), and Fried Dough ($3.29) can also be had.

Thinking it too chilly for ice cream, we instead explored the conventional dessert listings.

The restaurant Creme Brulee ($5.49) was exceptional, with sinfully rich custard and a fragile sugar crust. The Key Lime Pie ($4.29) was agreeable enough, even though we thought it had been most likely purchased elsewhere.

Seven mornings a week Krazy Jake's dishes up a full menu of breakfast favorites.

Name: Krazy Jake's
Address: 2537 Boston Road, Wilbraham
Phone: (413) 596-6464
Hours: Sunday 7 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday through Thursday 6 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday 6 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Saturday 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Entree Prices: $7.99 to $27.99
Credit cards: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Handicapped access: Accessible, with rest rooms equipped for wheelchairs
Reservations: Not normally taken