The menu reflects an appreciation of fresh, local ingredients and classic American kitchen techniques.
When the Apollo Grill in Easthampton opened a decade ago, Chef-Owner Casey Douglass envisioned his then-new restaurant as a tribute to the 1950s, a feel-good sort of place that visually referenced simpler times while serving dishes that reflected new ideas about American food.
Douglass' vision has remained true to that original inspiration; Apollo Grill circa 2013 is much like it was when the doors first opened in summer 2002. True, the decor's been toned down a bit, with a few of the edgy Flash Gordon elements retired.
The menu has evolved as well, but continues to reflect Douglass' appreciation of fresh, local ingredients and classic American kitchen techniques.
Today's bill of fare, we did note during a recent visit, has become considerably smaller than the one available back when the operation debuted.
The current dinner menu, for instance, lists only five main course options. Among these can be found Apollo Grill classics like Pan Seared Scallops ($21), Pistachio Crusted Salmon ($20) glazed with a mango hollandaise, and a Grilled Hanger Steak ($19).
Starter choices have been similarly streamlined, with possibilities boiled down to the likes of Vegetable Spring Rolls ($6) with a cucumber mint salad and Braised Wild Mushrooms with Parmesan Polenta ($7).
Several daily specials, however, do elaborate on the starter and main dish assortment.
The Mulligatawny Soup ($5) we sampled was well suited for mid-winter enjoyment, thanks to its shredded chicken meat, array of root vegetables, and curry-infused broth.
Douglass' Crab Cake ($8) remains somewhat unique. Made with crunchy Panko rather than soft breadcrumbs and served with a high-voltage smoked tomato sauce, the cake's a crab patty with solid seafood street creds.
A corn-black bean relish and taco crisp garnish provide harmonizing flavors and contrasting textures to the composition.
Panko Crusted Cod ($21) has been a menu staple at Apollo Grill since the beginning, and we can attest to the reasons for its lasting popularity.
The mild cod filet was complemented but not overshadowed by the crisp panko coating, and the lemon caper butter sauce that's served with it is just sharp enough to avoid cloyingly richness.
Our other dinner selection, Buttermilk Fried Chicken ($17), was comfort food made almost elegant, thanks to the kitchen's practice of boning out the chicken before frying it.
The golden crust that enrobed the chicken was crunchy and delicious, the meat inside appealingly moist. A black-pepper-enlivened country gravy added an additional layering of flavor.
Our entrees both came with mashed potato. Those served with the cod had been enhanced with minced parsley, an addition that tweaked the flavor profile in an unexpectedly subtle fashion.
Grilled asparagus was provided as a side dish with both our dinners.
Salad, it should be noted, is not a part of the deal at Apollo Grill, although several greens-and-garnishes options are available a la carte.
Apollo Grill is fully licensed, offering not only standard selections but the interesting and unique as well. A list of about twenty wines is available by both bottle and glass.
Dessert at the Grill is home-style with a twist. Choices include Apple Wontons, Pecan Pie, and Warm Chocolate Cake (all $5.95); several liqueured ice cream creations are also featured.
Cream Cheese Mousse with Blueberry Sauce ($5.95) is cheesecake deconstructed. Light-textured cream cheese mousse is topped with a not-too-sweet berry topping before being garnished with a graham cracker crumb cookie.
We liked the way all three elements had a chance to shine on their own rather than being melded into one confection.
A Vanilla Creme Brulee ($5.95) we sampled was competent though not exceptional. Its pastry-cream thickness made it, we thought, a bit too heavy.
The dinner menu at Apollo Grill also lists light fare options such as a Grilled Chicken Sandwich ($9) topped with fresh mozzarella and pesto mayonnaise; an Eggplant Napoleon ($12) of fresh mozzarella, portabella mushrooms, and roasted tomatoes; a Chicken Spinach and Cheddar Quesadilla ($11); and Grilled Lamb Kabob ($13).
At lunch Apollo Grill promotes a menu of burgers, sandwiches, and quesadillas.
Name: Apollo Grill
Address: 116 Pleasant Street (Eastworks Building), Easthampton
Phone: (413) 517-0031
Hours: Dinner served Tuesday through Thursday 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Lunch served Tuesday through Friday11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Entree Prices: $17 - $21
Credit Cards: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Handicapped Access: Accessible, with rest rooms equipped for wheelchairs
Reservations: Accepted