A sleek, contemporary-themed venue with a definite upscale feel, Johnny's offers a dining experience that transcends the typical.
Johnny's Tavern at 30 Boltwood Walk in Amherst.
Named after Johnny Yee, the founder of Chicopee's Hu Ke Lau Restaurant, Johnny's Tavern is much more than the everyday bar and grill.
A sleek, contemporary-themed venue with a definite upscale feel, Johnny's offers a dining experience that transcends the typical.
A hometown talent who began his culinary education at Northampton's Smith Vocational High School, Chef Bryan Graham has created a menu that offers choices such as Grilled Scottish Salmon ($21), a Pork Porterhouse served with caramelized apple brown sauce ($18), and Pan-seared Rainbow Trout ($17).
House-made fresh pasta is a specialty at Johnny's. It's served as Spaghetti & Meatballs ($15), as part of Red-Wine-Braised Pork Lasagna ($15) and in Shrimp Rigati ($17).
An extensive list of starters caters to the "grazing" crowd. Choices enumerated therein range from White Cheddar Mac & Cheese ($8) and Roasted Garlic Mussels ($9.50) to Pulled Pork Sliders ($8) and Tavern Wings ($9).
Pizza-style flatbreads are also available.
An appetizer order of Carbonara Style Risotto ($9) illustrated two aspects of the restaurant's appetizer credo.
First of all, the portion was exceedingly generous -- definitely suitable for sharing.
The risotto, a creamy piece of work flavored with sauteed shallots, cut-up bacon, and pecorino cheese, was also long on black pepper, a brash spice that's apparently one of Chef Graham's favorites.
An order of Truffle Fries ($6) was also scaled for multi-diner enjoyment. The pile of skin-on potato sticks was bigger than any one mortal should dare to finish.
Drizzled with white truffle oil and generously dusted with grated parmesan, the fries had a deliciously musky fragrance. Once we started in on them, it was hard to stop.
An interesting tomato jam (think sugary, chunky marinara) was served on the side.
A plate of Pan Roasted Miso Glazed Cod ($20) was certainly handsome to look at, with the slab of fish attractively positioned between two haves of bright green baby bok choy.
However, the miso had been so heavily troweled onto the cod that it dominated the composition's flavor. Restraint should have been the order of the day with such a robustly savory ingredient.
The accompanying boy choy also needed more cooking time to make it palatable. Deep-fried risotto balls completed the presentation.
A Tavern Burger ($11) was, on the other hand, first rate.
A serious, beefy handful (in this era of burger bloat the average patty seems to be creeping up towards the half-pound mark) topped with beer braised onions, white cheddar, lettuce, and sliced tomato, the burger offered all we could have wanted and more in a between-bun experience.
We requested the side salad option to accompany it. House-made chips are the alternate plate partner.
The wine list at Johnny's Tavern would be completely at home in most any upscale eatery. It offers forty-plus bottle choices priced between $20 and $60, and more than a dozen wines, like the fragrant Pennywise Pinot Noir ($7) we paired up with our burger, are poured on a by-the-glass basis.
Desserts the restaurant serves are made on site. Choices include a Brownie Sundae, Warm Apple Cinnamon Bread Pudding, and Tiramisu (all $7).
A generous slab of Pumpkin Cheesecake ($7) had a dense, ginger-perfumed character that made a hearty conclusion to dinner.
The Tavern's Creme Brulee ($7) might annoy dessert purists with its deep-dish format, a configuration that disrupts the delicate balance between custard and sugar crust. We had no problem with it, however.
Kudos in particular to the restaurant for garnishing their desserts with real whipped cream, a practice we all too infrequently encounter.
In addition to appetizers and entrees, the served-all-day menu at Johnny's Tavern include the likes of Korean Marinated Steak Tacos ($11), a Fall Gobbler ($10) turkey sandwich, and a Grilled Portabella Wrap ($9).
Entree salads are also available in forms like Grilled Garlic Shrimp ($13.50) over arugula and a Tossed Cobb Salad ($11.50) dressed with oregano vinaigrette.
On Monday and Tuesday Johnny's Tavern offers a three-course prix fixe deal that's priced at $19.
Name: Johnny's Tavern
Address: 30 Boltwood Walk (across from Town Hall), Amherst
Telephone: (413) 230-3818
Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; and Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Entree prices: $13-$21
Credit cards: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Handicapped access: Accessible, with rest rooms equipped for wheelchairs
Reservations: Accepted