Kurt Soukup, the restaurant's chef-owner, got his start at the Lake House in Wilbraham before spending a number of years at the Student Prince in downtown Springfield.
Veritas Restaurant, a new Sturbridge eatery we recently checked out, is an operation with Springfield area connections. Kurt Soukup, the restaurant's chef-owner, got his start at the Lake House in Wilbraham before spending a number of years at the Student Prince in downtown Springfield.
Soukup's most recent restaurant gig was in the Caribbean, and the experience at Veritas reflects that influence. The ambiance, however, is unvarnished Colonial, right down to the wide, painted floorboards in the restaurant's historic Main Street venue.
Soukup gives flight to his creative instincts in composing the menu at Veritas, which he reworks monthly.
There's nonetheless a common core – several dishes like Sauerbraten ($16) that he's lifted from his Student Prince experience; Yankee favorites such as Stuffed Boston Cod ($18); and Latin-inflected options that currently include Paella ($20) and pepper-crusted Ahi Tuna ($21) served with a mango-ginger guacamole.
Starter selections are equally eclectic. Escargot ($9) in sage cream sauce is one example; Braised Beef Short Ribs ($9) with stout sauce over mofungo (mashed green plantains) holds forth as another.
Those with a taste for the more conventional can select from the likes of New England Clam Chowder ($5) and Jumbo Wings ($9) prepared Buffalo style.
We began our visit with an order of Seared Scallops ($9). Wrapped in prosciutto and presented two per order, the scallops were plated with a triangle of roasted shrimp polenta and a decorative puddle of lobster sauce.
The portion was ideal for appetizer enjoyment, and Soukup's concern for the visual became immediately apparent – the dish was composed into an edible still life.
One minor grumble, though – the prosciutto wrap tended to upstage the sweetness of the scallops themselves.
A Maryland Jumbo Lump Crab Cake ($8) was an equally impressive work. The cake's flavor was dominated by savory crab sweetness, and a generous drizzle of lobster sauce enhance that part of the experience.
A slaw of red cabbage and crisp julienned jicama provided color and palate-cleansing textural contrast.
Those who enjoy the deliciously funky flavor of woodland mushrooms will like Chef Soukup's Mushroom Ravioli ($16). Promoted as a house specialty, the oversized pasta pockets are stuffed with garlic-accented mushroom forcemeat. A faintly sweet and grape-y port wine sauce, roasted red pepper strips, sliced mushrooms, and baby spinach leaves complete the composition.
It's the sort of meat-free experience to which even unrepentant carnivores can relate.
Soukup supplements his monthly menus with nightly dinner features; the Pork Tournedos ($18) we ordered were one such feature.
Two grilled, boneless pork cutlets were arranged over a pulled pork risotto. Quartered, roasted baby bok choy flanked the pork, while a topping of sliced mushrooms and crumbled Roquefort finished things off.
The risotto was a particularly pleasant experience, the sweet pork barbecue flavor an appealing riff on the plate's porcine central focus. A sort of "pork two ways" experience, we decided.
Entrees at Veritas don't include salad, although tasty breads and spreads are part of the deal. The evening we visited a brown bread loaf was being served with maple-infused butter.
Salads are available a la carte, and the handsomely rendered Pear Salad ($7) brought together thin-sliced pear, candied walnuts, caramelized onions, and crumbled Gorgonzola, all of which was arranged atop greens dressed with Champagne vinaigrette.
Veritas is fully licensed and maintains an extensive wine list. Bottle prices are mostly in the $20 to $45 range.
Dessert selections are as varied as those on the main menu. They range from Cream Suchard (a Student Prince homage – $6) and Death by Chocolate Brownie Sundae ($6) to Old Sturbridge Bread Pudding ($6).
Our Coconut Cream Brulee ($6) was a noteworthy experience. Served in an oversized coffee cup, the coconut-milk pastry cream had a delicate sugar crust.
The restaurant Key Lime Pie ($6) was competent though not exceptional, although we did react favorably to the pineapple and mango purees puddled on the plate. They added a fresh fruit note that rescued the dessert from mediocrity.
Name: Veritas Restaurant
Address: 420 Main St., Sturbridge
Telephone: (508) 347-3424
Hours: Monday, Wednesday and Thursday 3 p.m. to; Friday and Saturday 3 p.m. to; Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. (closing times can vary, call ahead)
Entree prices: $16- $25
Credit cards: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Handicapped access: Accessible, restrooms equipped for wheelchairs.
Reservations: Accepted