Restaurant review: The View in Agawam

The menu at The View has an Italian inflection, but nonetheless constitutes a reassuringly mainstream culinary agenda.

As lifestyles have become more face-paced and informal, members-only country club dining has become something of an anachronism. In response, several local golf courses have either opened their dining rooms to the general public or leased out those facilities to independent operators. The result has been a whole new class of restaurant experiences.

The View Restaurant and Bar in Agawam represents just such a conversion. Operating out of the Crestview Country Club in Agawam, it occupies the Club's "19th Hole" space.

The view is indeed impressive, offering long vistas across Central Hampden County, but the ambiance unfortunately isn't. With mismatched furnishings and several prominently positioned flat screens, The View's ambiance is more "sports bar" than "fine dine."

That's unfortunate, since the food itself is quite remarkable. The skill and flair with which it is prepared and presented deserves more suitable surroundings.

The menu at The View has an Italian inflection, but nonetheless constitutes a reassuringly mainstream culinary agenda.

Entrees include the likes of a Bourbon-glazed Delmonico Steak ($24.95) garnished with onions and mushrooms, and Grilled Pork Tenderloin ($19.95) served with mango chutney demi-glace.

Chicken Francaise ($18.95), Pan Seared Sea Scallops ($23.95), and Shrimp Florentine ($23.95) are also available.

Appetizer choices reflect a similar gastronomic perspective. They range from Fried Brussels Sprouts ($9.95) with a sweet chili aioli and a Chesapeake Bay Crab Cake ($9.95) to Three Cheese Stuffed Mushrooms ($8.95) and Jumbo Garlic Shrimp ($9.95) served over angel hair pasta.

An order of Artichokes Francaise ($8.95) served as an introduction to the kitchen's first-rate way of doing things.

A dish too often diminished by haphazard preparation, the version at The View was textbook-perfect, the artichoke hearts mild-flavored, the lemon and wine sauce silky and perfectly balanced.

Our reaction to a Grilled Portabello Mushroom ($7.95) starter was equally enthusiastic. Stuffed with strips of roasted red pepper and topped with melted Provolone, the cap was a savory tour de force. One of the more skillfully executed marinara sauces we've come across in quite a while further enhanced the overall experience.

There was a time when no self-respecting eatery would serve a steak that hadn't been carefully hand trimmed to remove every bit of fat and gristle.

That's not the case these days, but The View stands out as an exception. The New York Sirloin ($24.95) we were served was a masterpiece of the meat-cutter's art. Cooked as requested and served topped with sauteed mushrooms, it came with a side of Gorgonzola cream sauce.

Veal Milanese ($24.95) was an Italian classic subtly reinterpreted. Three cutlets deftly crumb-coated and pan-sauteed, they received a generously unconventional dusting of freshly grated Parmesan, a finishing touch that added depths of savory flavor.
A dish of the aforementioned marinara was served on the side.

Our third entree, Baked Haddock ($19.95), was prepared with a traditional topping of buttered cracker crumbs. Done right, employing nothing more than fresh crumbs and melted butter, the View's execution of "crumb topped" illustrated why the idea became popular.

Entrees at The View come with sides like garlicky sauteed spinach, au gratin potatoes, and sauteed vegetables, all of which were properly seasoned and prepared with precision.

Salads are included in dinner and are offered as either a baby-greens-and-garnishes "Club View" version or a "Greek" salad generously augmented with olives, pepperoncini, and artichoke hearts.

Patrons can choose to substitute soup for salad, an option we exercised. The cheeseburger chowder we sampled was flawless, but really too robust for multicourse dining enjoyment.

The View is fully licensed and stocks a rather extensive assortment of beers. The wine list describes about thirty different bottlings, most of which are priced between $20 and $40.

A small dessert selection -- typically three choices -- is supplemented by several varieties of ice cream.

The individual Chocolate Lava Cake ($4.95) presented us with nothing to complain about, and the Lemon Cheesecake ($4.95) dessert, with its lemon curd and streusel topping, was equally likable. However, both were, we suspect, commercial confections.

Name: The View Restaurant and Bar
Address: 281 Shoemaker Lane, Agawam
Phone: (413) 786-2593
Hours: Dinner served Wednesday through Saturday 5:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.
Entree Prices: $15.95 - $27.95
Credit Cards: Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Handicapped Access: Accessible, with rest rooms equipped for wheelchairs
Reservations: Accepted