At the Dockside, the menu's theme is seafood.
Perhaps it's the waterway's industrial era past or its tendency to spill over its banks – whatever the reason, the Connecticut River can be tough to get close to.
One location where it is possible to enjoy the waterway in all its majesty is Brunellle's Marina in South Hadley, where the Dockside Restaurant offers panoramic vistas of the Connecticut's progress to the sea.
The Dockside's a casual place; the decor's a simple combination of window glass and barn board, with a few nautical-themed pieces of artwork to add splashes of color. A glassed-in bar occupies the back of the restaurant space.
At The Dockside, the menu's theme is seafood. With the exception of a Char-broiled Sirloin Steak ($15.99), all the other entrees feature either cod or shellfish.
Translated into specifics, this means choices such as Fish & Chips ($11.99), Broiled Scrod ($14.99), Whole "Bellie" Clams ($17.99) and Shrimp & Scallops Scampi ($21.99).
Starter choices are straight from the mainstream eatery playbook -- Crispy Chicken Wings ($9.99), Calamari Rings ($7.99), Chicken Strips ($6.99), and Stuffed Mushroom Caps ($9.99).
Clam Chowder ($2.99), French Onion Soup ($5.99), and Homemade Chili ($6.99) are also available.
We began our dinner with an order of Cordon Blue Bites ($6.99), a starter snack we'd not previously encountered.
Mostly likely a commercial product, the bites nonetheless earned our approval. Crisply crusted with a light batter coating, the ping pong ball-sized chicken nuggets contained a filling of minced ham and Swiss cheese.
Served with a sweet mustard cream, the bites delivered a familar combination of savory flavors.
The Dockside Lobster Roll ($14.99) was a credible example of that particular sandwich genre.
There was no faulting the lobster filling; it was lightly dressed with mayonnaise and lent crunch by a judicious amount of diced celery. Mounded into a toasted ciabatta roll, the sandwich's only flaw was our inability to eat it with any semblance of style and grace.
The roll was served with French fries and a mild, freshly prepared coleslaw.
Generously seasoned with paprika, an order of Broiled Sea Scallops ($18.99) were satisfying though not particularly remarkable. Accompanied by a baked potato (oven roasted or au gratin were offered alternatives) and a medley of vegetables, the dinner could have also been enhanced with a side salad for an additional $1.99 charge.
Since the location is fully licensed, patrons have a range of legal beverages from which to choose. The wine choices are, however, basic jug-style varietals.
Dessert at The Dockside is a pie-and-cake affair. Possibilities range from chocolate cream and pecan pies to "blackout" cake and a hot fudge brownie.
The Carrot Cake ($3.50) was moist, nut-studded, and properly laced with cinnamon and spice, while the New York Style Cheesecake ($3.50) came with the option of chocolate or strawberry sauce toppings.
Both were, we suspect, commercial products, but they were fresh and attractively presented.
The Dockside's served-all-day menu incorporates a classic Reuben ($8.59), a selection of grinders ($8.99), a Club Sandwich ($8.99), and a Clam Strip Roll ($11.99).
Entree salads such as a Chicken Caesar Salad ($9.99) and Spring Salad topped with grilled chicken, shrimp, or tuna salad represent another light meal option.
Twelve-inch Pizzas ($13.99) are also on the agenda and come in a variety of topping combinations like Philly Cheese Steak (shaved steak, peppers, mushrooms and onions), Buffalo Chicken (hot-sauced chicken and blue cheese), and a multi-topping Meat Lovers.
The Dockside's version of Hawaiian Pizza ($13.99) differed in that it was a "white pie" rather than employing the typical tomato-based pizza sauce. Garlic and oil lent savory notes, shaved ham lent a bit of meaty goodness, and chunk pineapple provided hints of sweetness.
Several daily entree specials complement the standard menu, and a $7.99 luncheon special of soup and sandwich or pizza and salad is available as well.
On Sunday mornings The Dockside opens early, serving a brunch buffet from 10 a.m. until 2 p.m. The menu features breakfast food favorites including waffles and omelets made to order.