Coco's surroundings are cozy, the service is friendly, and the food is just plain amazing.
Coco at 95 Main St. in EasthamptonWhile it's certainly not the dining out mecca that Northampton has come to be, the neighboring Easthampton does offer a number of noteworthy eating experiences.
The latest to debut is Coco. Operating out of a storefront on Main Street, the restaurant opened late last summer to good reviews and only seems to have gotten better as weeks and months ensued.
Coco is a culinary collaboration of Unmi Abkin and Roger Taylor, two names familiar to Western Massachusetts foodies.
In Coco they've created the casual eatery against which all others claiming that label must be measured. The surroundings are minimalist but cozy, the service is efficient and friendly, and the food -- well, we thought it to be just plain amazing.
Admittedly, Coco might not be to everyone's taste. The menu is limited, with only five entree choices augmented by the occasional special, and the house style does favor the spicy end of the spectrum.
That which the kitchen produces, however, is distinguished by a freshness and clarity of flavor that puts much other local restaurant fare to shame.
The current agenda features comfort food options like a Fennel Sausage Ragu ($14) accented with fresh basil and Grana Parmigiano, Eggplant Parmesan ($14), and Coriander-crusted Salmon ($19) drizzled with a vinaigrette infused with red pepper flakes and finely minced fresh mint.
Starters are equally few in number -- a trio of salads, a Tomato Dill Soup ($7), and Fried Brussels Sprouts ($6) served with aioli dipping sauce.
An Arugula & Endive Salad ($7) was a plateful of lightly dressed, impeccably fresh arugula, crumbles of goat cheese, sweet matchsticks of oven roasted onions, and fresh walnuts. Our only grumble was the portion -- too much for one diner to reasonably polish off.
Our Roasted Beet Salad ($9) served as feast for the eye as well as the palate, with a mosaic of ruby-red beets slices and precisely cut orange "wheels" served the composition's focal point. Thin strips of ricotta salata, a firmer version of fresh ricotta, and chopped toasted almonds contributed richness and crunch to a superior salad experience.
As for the Buttermilk Fried Chicken ($17) we enjoyed at Coco -- well, eat your heart out, Colonel.
A delectably golden-crusted breast portion, the chicken was moist and juicy in a way restaurant chicken rarely ever is. It came to the table atop a mound of mashed potatoes infused with garlic; pan gravy and a fresh cabbage slaw were also provided.
A drizzle of chili oil lent the dish a surprising, though ultimately likeable, kick.
The Meatballs and Polenta ($13) at Coco represent comfort food taken to a new level. Three jumbo meatballs, their tender-textured interiors much more about meat than binder, had been simmered in a mellow yet garlicky tomato ragu. As with the chicken, a low-voltage jolt of spicy heat had also been factored in.
Paired with the meatballs was a simple yet satisfying polenta and, pinch-hitting for the advertised garlic spinach, fresh green beans.
Coco is licensed for the sale of beer and wine, offering a judicious selection of each, including a selection of wines by the glass.
Attention is lavished on non-alcoholic beverages as well. The house serves various Italian sodas and prepares its own homemade ginger hibiscus drink.
As with the main menu, the dessert selection at Coco is limited in scope but superior in quality.
Passing up Chocolate Mousse ($5) made edgy with espresso and Szechuan peppercorns, we instead opted for Fresh Ginger Cake ($6) and Lemon Panna Cotta ($5).
The ginger cake -- tender, moist, and sweet spicy -- was nothing like the dry gingerbread of nursery lore. Served with a generous dollop of lemon-infused whipped cream, it was sheer dessert delight.
Panna cotta, an eggless milk custard, is an Italian dessert we don't see often enough. The version at Coco was tremblingly delicate, with a mild citrus flavor; a silver-dollar-sized dollop of blueberry sauce made for just the right contrast.
Name: Coco
Address: 95 Main St., Easthampton
Telephone: (413) 203-5321
Hours: Wednesday and Thursday 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Entree prices: $13 - $19
Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa
Handicapped access: Accessible, with rest room equipped for wheelchairs
Reservations: Accepted and advised