The key to the decision, ultimately, was, in part, that there was no keyhole in one of the designs.
View full sizeMondo Guerra's designThe decision on who to send home from the last challenge before the finale of the "Project Runway All-Stars" Season 1 was not easy. Kenley Collins or Michael Costello? The contemporary department, or the designer department (to paraphrase guest judge Nanette Lepore)?
"That was the hardest one (decision) we have made so far. That was hard," judge Isaac Mizrahi said after the judges concluded their deliberations.
The key to the decision, ultimately, was, in part, that there was no keyhole neckline detail in one of the designs. That, plus a stubborn attitude from the designer that turned off a few of the judges, including Lepore, for whom the designers were working on this challenge.
The challenge: Create ready-to-wear looks that are timeless and can be sold to customers across the country. The client: Lepore, a New York designer "known for her romantic, feminine and modern designs," host/judge Angela Lindvall said. The winning design must be manufactured for a specific price point.
It was fascinating to learn how much money can be spent on fabric for certain retail price points. For our four remaining designers, that ranged from Mondo's $32 for a $300 price point dress to Austin's $65 for a $500 coat.
View full sizeAustin Scarlett's designSketching and fabric purchasing was done at Lepore's studio in the New York garment district. The winner gets their design manufactured in a New York factory to be sold in Lepore's stores, with the profits going to savethegarmentcenter.org. Tonight's show talked about how the garment district is in trouble because of the high price of doing business in the Big Apple.
The results were 50-50 – Mondo Guerra and Austin Scarlett, who, as we've said, are the clear-cut two best designers of the season – had the best designs. Kenley and Michael didn't.
Mondo was the winner, and he earned it. He put together – OK, pulled out of his ass – a really cute dress of different lawyers of fabric. It was amazing to watch Mondo's design process. He doesn't sketch. It was tough to watch him show Nanette his "sketch." She and Kelly Keough, Nanette's fashion coster (you learn something new every day, or at least I did with the "fashion coster" title) had consultations with all the designers to figure out what the price point would be for the design sketches and how much fabric they could afford accordingly. For Mondo, who said he sketches like an 8-year-old, it was an uncomfortable situation. "It looks like a tin can with a string," Nanette told him. Kenley gave him a rash of crap about his inability to sketch.
But Mondo had an idea. And then he found some fabric. And then, despite his all-too-frequent self-doubts, he put together a fabulous design. And, as so often happens, he won.
And he lost to Gretchen Jones in "Project Runway" Season 8? I'll never get over that one.
View full sizeKenley Collins' design
View full sizeMichael Costello's designAustin's "swing coat" was classic Austin, a rich-looking, superbly made piece. I loved the way it looked so different with and without the belt. What I couldn't figure out was how it went on and off. If there was a zipper or buttons, I missed them. Austin advanced to the finale.
So then it was between Kenley and Michael to advance or be sent home. Kenley blew it by eliminating the keyhole neckline detail at the front of the dress that was in her original design. She didn't think it would work with the fabric. And Isaac called the dress "frumpy," perhaps because of the high neck and poor, too-loose fit. But the biggest problem was the fabric pattern didn't work with her design - if you're making a dress with lots of seaming and pieces, a big pattern really isn't a great idea, no matter how pretty the pattern is. And at least a few of the judges had problems with her stubborn attitude during her workroom consultation with Nanette and mentor Joanna Coles (I cannot blame her for not paying much attention to Joanna, but, geez, you've got to pay attention to your client who happens to be a longtime successful New York designer).
Despite all that, I personally liked Kenley's dress better than Michael's caftan. I agree with Mondo – it was something we've seen from Michael before. Plus, I just didn't think it was that interesting. As judge Georgina Chapman said, "... that dress without that print, what was it, it was just a very simple caftan." But, props to Michael for choosing the perfect print to make his design shine.
Judges' critiques
Mondo:
Angela: "... one of the things that's bothering me is showing it with high heels … this is my least favorite of Mondo's looks ..."
Georgina: "I like your use of fabrics, that's where you're very strong … he gave himself such a challenge by choosing so many different fabrics … everybody else chose one fabric ..."
Isaac: "… it's masterful to a certain degree … the way you've balanced the colors … it was a real composition ..."
Nanette: "... it's very cute, but I worry that it would be hard to get a woman with curves into a silhouette like that ..."
Michael:
Angela: "... I wasn't sure why it was made so long … she looked like she was struggling walking ..."
Georgina: "... you've managed to do something very sensual rather than overtly sexual …"
Isaac: "… whatever it was, when it walked down the runway, I thought, that is really pretty on that girl ..."
Nanette: "I love it, I would put it in my suitcase and take it away ... as sexy as they are, backless things don't sell really well ..."
Kenley:
Angela: "... where your seams come, it throws off your eye with the pattern ..."
Georgina: "... I love your quirk … yet you take it to a modern … her design fought your (Nanette's) print ..."
Isaac: "... it's a really good dress, except I kept waiting for it to turn into something more inspired on the runway … I found that dress a little frumpy ..."
Nanette: "... I'm kind of sad because there was a beautiful detail on the sketch that's missing now .. I felt like that was gonna be the thing that made it more commercial … she doesn't want to take advice ..."
Austin:
Angela: "But it is beautiful … I think this would sell well in retail ..."
Georgina: "What I love about Austin he's just on his own plane – Austin sticks to Austin ..."
Isaac: "... I would never have known that it was coat the way you showed it … I really like it ..."
Nanette: "... Not every looks great on the runway … some things that look great for retail just don't do enough for the runway. ..."
Mondo on winning:
"I almost threw in the towel on this challenge. I'm shocked to be here."
Kenley's farewell:
"I don't really compromise what my vision is. I stick to it, and I do it. I have a vision and I go for it. Of course I'm bummed, I wanted to win. But life goes on. Project Runway All-Stars inspired me to really push myself and just see where it goes."
