The "new" Main Moon occupies the space it inherited from its predecessor -- a lower level storefront in the Village Commons.
It's been a long time -- a decade or more -- since we last visited Main Moon in South Hadley. A minor name change (the restaurant's now identifying itself as a cafe) and new ownership suggested that it was time to make a return visit.
The "new" Main Moon occupies the space it inherited from its predecessor -- a lower level storefront in South Hadley's Village Commons. Simply but attractively decorated, the two small dining rooms favor soft, cool pastels. Wall hangings in the Oriental style are the sole aesthetic reference to the restaurant's ethnic identity.
New Main Moon differs from many contemporary Oriental restaurants in that it has no sushi bar, instead specializing in traditional Chinatown cuisine.
Chef's specialties thus include the likes of Happy Family ($12.75), a stir-fry that incorporates, beef, chicken, pork, scallops, and shrimp; spicy-flavored Orange Beef ($10.75); and General Tso's Chicken ($10.25).
Among the numerous entree selections can be found the likes of Bean Curd Szechuan Style ($7.95), Roast Pork with Broccoli ($8.15), Chicken with Cashew Nuts ($8.15), and Shrimp with Chili Sauce ($10.75).
Other Chinese restaurant classics that make an appearance include Roast Pork Fried Rice ($6.95), Chicken Egg Foo Young ($7.55), and Shrimp Chow Mein ($7.95).
Appetizer selections also favor the conventional -- Crab Rangoons ($4.75),
Steamed Dumplings ($4.50) and Cold Noodles with Hot Sesame Sauce ($3.95) -- as do various soups like Egg Drop ($2.25) and Chicken Rice ($2.95).
We began dinner with two staples of the chop suey repertoire.
Wonton Soup ($1.75) featured a golden yellow broth rich with chicken character, but the wontons floating in it lacked the cloudlike delicacy from which the soup takes its name. Thick and chewy wrappers made the wontons them more akin to dumplings, although the filling they contained did have a meaty flavor we liked.
A Spring Egg Roll ($1.75) had a crispy, non-greasy wrapper; the filling was a mild-tasting combination of shredded Chinese cabbage, carrot, and quartered straw mushrooms.
Ginger Chicken with String Beans ($8.15) is a favorite of ours, since at its best the dish offers zesty ginger bite and plenty of appealing green bean crunch.
Superlatives wouldn't be appropriate to describe the version we sampled at Main Moon; "workman-like" is probably a better way of summing up the experience. We did appreciate the freshness of the chicken, and the green beans provided the requisite "snap." What was absent, however, was the complex interplay of soy, ginger, and sweetness that distinguishes the dish at its best. Instead, the flavor experience was pleasing but by no means memorable.
In addition to its Chinese selections, New Main Moon Cafe offers a handful of Thai dishes. These include the archetypical Pad Thai, which can be ordered with Chicken ($8.25) or Shrimp ($8.95), and Thai Basil, a dish that comes in tofu ($8.95), beef ($10.55), and shrimp ($10.95 variations.
Depending on the source consulted, Thai "drunken" noodles are thus labeled either due to their popularity as an after-hours, out-carousing snack or their efficacy as a hangover remedy. Name origins of the dish notwithstanding, authentic drunken noodles are spicy, their flavor derived from green chilies, basil, and fresh peppercorns.
The Thai Drunken Noodles with Shrimp ($8.95) we ordered at Main Moon turned out, however, to be quite tame. Though shreds of fresh basil were present, the dominant taste bud impressions were of fish sauce and soy; peppery heat was barely present.
Carrot shreds, onions, mung bean sprouts, soft rice noodles, and a generous quantity of medium-sized shrimp constituted the body of the stir-fry.
Main Moon is not licensed, so the beverage options available are limited to tea and soft drinks. As is customary in Far Eastern eateries, sweet, Western-style desserts are not served.
Most menu options can be ordered before 3 p.m. on weekdays and Saturdays as part of a three-course "Luncheon special." Noon hour prices are pegged mostly in the $5 to $6 range.
Name: New Main Moon Cafe
Address: 11 College Street (Village Commons), South Hadley
Phone: (413) 533-8839
Hours: Monday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday 12 noon to 10 p.m.
Entree Prices: $7.95 - $13.95
Credit Cards: MasterCard, Visa
Handicapped Access: Accessible, with rest rooms equipped for wheelchairs
Reservations: Not usually taken